Drinking water might be one of the basic necessities of life in other parts of the world but in Pakistan, it is becoming a luxury in major urban centers. Amid the country’s water woes, a particular fashion is fueling water scarcity in Pakistan.

Fast fashion has contributed to Pakistan’s water pollution through its intensive use of chemicals during textile production and dyeing processes.

The production of synthetic fibres commonly used in fast fashion, such as polyester, releases microplastics into water sources during washing, aggravating water pollution.

What is fast fashion

Fast fashion companies adopt a business model and trend within the fashion industry that emphasizes producing and delivering inexpensive and trendy clothing quickly to meet consumer demand.

The high level of globalization and increasing demand contribute to a rapid increase in the prevalence of the fast fashion industry in Pakistan. Fast fashion brands are gaining popularity and becoming a go-to choice for more and more people as they align with the fast-paced lives of today’s society.

Everyone reaches for fast fashion brands due to their greater accessibility, cheap prices, and fast-changing fashion trends. Surprisingly, amidst the allure of fast fashion, people largely overlook the intricate process and profound impact that this industry has on the climate.

The high cost of cheap clothes

Since the early 2000s, Pakistan has experienced a rapid increase in fast fashion trends, driven by increasing inflation and the influence of social media. As market trends changed, fashion also evolved, leading consumers to follow the dilemma of “keeping up with the trends.”

The availability of clothing became much cheaper compared to what it used to be with traditional fashion brands such as “Bareeze”, however at what cost?

Fast fashion significantly decreases the quality of the product, which is why people who did not intend to keep replacing their clothes with new ones have to do so anyway.

Life is all good when we look at just the positive aspects, however, the rise of fast fashion and its intersection with a changing climate compels us to face stark reality.

Several cities in Pakistan host factories of fast fashion, but Faisalabad leads the industry.

These factories in Faisalabad and other cities produce clothes not only for local brands but also for foreign fast fashion brands.

The exports generated from these foreign brands in 2020 were up to $2 billion in revenue, with 26.64% going to the US, but they come at a high cost to the environment and water sanitation.

Carbon footprint

Carbon footprints are used to quantify the level of air pollution. The fast fashion industry increases its carbon footprint, which raises air pollution.

This can have severe health consequences such as respiratory problems, heart diseases, and other health issues. It also impacts the climate, as it leads to increasing the overall temperature of the country.

The increase in demand of fast fashion drives an increase in production and manufacturing, causing more energy utilization and contributing to increased transportation, ultimately resulting in an overall increase in the carbon footprint.

Many fast fashion garments are produced using chemical-intensive processes that release harmful substances into the environment. This contributes not only to the carbon footprint but also impacts air and water quality.

Dumpster filling

Importantly, these clothes eventually end up in dumpsters as non-biodegradable waste, because most clothes are made from polyester as it is cheap and durable and fits right into the fast fashion matrix. However, as polyester is a plastic-based product, and unlike natural fibres it requires lots of energy to produce and is non-biodegradable taking 200 years to break down.

Fast fashion’s rapid turnover leads to a significant amount of discarded clothing, which often ends up in landfills and the decomposition of these clothes in dumpsters can produce methane, which is very harmful for the environment, mostly because a common practice of decomposition in Pakistan is to burn garbage in dumpsters which is even worse.

All of this added to this is increased inflation and unemployment, causing more inclination towards the concept of cheap clothes over quality clothes. Not only that, but it also causes a decrease in the purchasing power of customers who prefer fast fashion over sustainable fashion brands.

However, are these international brands to be blamed, or local ones or is it the lack of accountability while implementing laws regarding effective sanitation and water treatment plants? Whistle, the dumping sites around Karachi are proof of how, in Pakistan, no one really seems to be thinking of sustainability.

Apart from climate, the fast fashion industry in Pakistan is specifically known for the exploitation of workers working in these factories. The exploitation of these workers is not just in terms of low wages, but also poor working conditions, lack of job security and increasing health concerns. Furthermore, this exploitation is not only from local brands but also from international fast fashion brands that have their production lines outsourced in Pakistan.

With the increase of talks regarding sustainability and climate change, there is comparatively more awareness in the generation, however, the existence of fast fashion has not reduced.

Is sustainability achievable?

Amidst the prevailing popularity of the term ‘sustainability’, one must question whether the Pakistani fashion industry is genuinely embracing and advancing towards sustainable practices or not.

To answer this question, it is important to understand that sustainability is not just on the end product but also on the process and manufacturing, so even if they replace paper bags with cloth bags until the fashion industry does not work towards sustainable manufacturing, waste management and reduced use of polyester and other harmful chemical, sustainability cannot be achieved.

Similarly, if our methods to decompose waste are producing more greenhouse gases, that too is not achieving sustainability.

So, to truly achieve sustainability in fashion, collaboration among consumers, producers, policymakers, and other stakeholders is vital. Consumers hold significant power to drive change and should begin by adopting conscious buying habits. Gradually reducing the purchase and disposal of fast fashion clothes, opting for high-quality, timeless pieces, and favouring natural fibres over polyester can make a difference.

Producers must play a crucial role by shifting away from excessive polyester use and adopting more sustainable manufacturing practices to minimize their carbon footprint.

This entails investing in eco-friendly materials, ethical sourcing, and responsible waste management. Additionally, producers should gradually transition their production towards sustainable fashion choices, such as circular fashion, recycled materials, and upcycling, to minimize the industry’s environmental impact.