Each year, the largest contemporary Muslim pilgrimage takes place in Iraq to remember Imam Hussein (RA/AS), the Prophet Muhammad’s (pbuh) grandson. Before the pandemic, this event reportedly drew more than 30 million people, but in recent years participation declined to more than 14 million. This procession from Najaf to Karbala, where Hussein is buried, commemorates the 40th day after his martyrdom, a typical length of mourning in Muslim traditions.
Following the death of the Holy Prophet (pbuh) in A.D. 632, a dispute developed over who would be his rightful successor. This became the source of the Sunni-Shia divide. For Shia, Hussein was their third Imam, a beloved spiritual and political leader.
After many years of war, the Umayyad dynasty, which lasted from 661 to 750, established its rule over the Middle East and North Africa. The inhabitants of Kufa, a garrison town in Iraq, were among those who defied the Umayyads and invited Hussein (RA) to lead them in revolt. But Hussein (RA) and his army were outnumbered and suffered a brutal defeat during the Battle of Karbala. Hussein (RA) was martyred in 680 on the 10th day of Muharram, a day known as Ashura.
Scholars have long been fascinated by the variety of cultural performances evoking intense emotions that occur during Muharram. Since the 1979 Iranian revolution, Shias have adapted the commemoration to connect Islamic history with the present and to highlight the need for social justice for Muslim populations today.
Public commemorations take place in other parts of the world as well. Processions in northern Tanzania are usually scheduled according to the Islamic lunar calendar to fall on the ninth and 10th days of Muharram.
In Tanzania, Shia Islam first arrived with the Khoja trading community, a caste from India that converted from Hinduism to Islam. Khojas began to settle in East Africa in the 19th century due to drought, famines and religious persecution in their homeland.
Initially, Shia Islam was associated with Asian Muslims, whereas African Muslims were predominantly Sunni. Shia Islam was slow to develop in East Africa.
In 1979, the Iranian government of Mohammad Reza Pahlavi, the Shah of Iran, was overthrown and replaced by an Islamic state headed by Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini that rejected Western influence. This cataclysmic event, known as the Iranian revolution, led to a political resurgence for Muslims globally, including in Africa. Muslims of all denominations were inspired by this first successful Islamic revolution since the time of the Holy Prophet (pbuh).
Khojas have been marching in Ashura processions for the past century in what is today the United Republic of Tanzania. Haji Ali Nathoo was the longtime president of the Khoja Shia community in Zanzibar, an Indian Ocean archipelago off the coast of Tanzania. He requested from the British colonial government that the 10th day of Muharram, called Ashura, be a public holiday. This was granted in 1920.
Processions became an annual tradition in Zanzibar and Tanga, a port city in northeast Tanzania. They later gained popularity in urban areas with large mosques, such as Dar es Salaam, Tanzania’s coastal capital and a major commercial center; Arusha; and Moshi, a town near the Kenyan border in the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro. Processions require a permit from the government, as roads are closed and police protection is provided.
The Khojas in Dar es Salaam, the largest in East Africa, construct a large outdoor display during Muharram. This attracts community members and educates the general public about the Battle of Karbala. In Arusha, a smaller diorama of the battle scene is displayed outside the gates of the Khoja mosque.
Black signs with red, yellow or white lettering decorate mosques and main roads through town. One sign refers to Imam Hussein (RA) as “The inspiration for mankind to strive for Justice and Equality.”
Many people attend various “majalis,” or gatherings, and organizations stagger the timing of their events as not to overlap. Food is always provided, ranging from small bags of sugar or rice to biscuits or a cooked meal served in the mosque. This food is thought to bring religious blessings to those who consume it.
Some Tanzanians donate blood, an accepted practice today among Shias worldwide in remembrance and solidarity with Imam Hussein (RA). Blood donations have begun to replace self-flagellation, a blood-letting ritual performed by many men in order to re-enact and partake in the suffering of the Imam’s family during the Battle of Karbala.
Indian and African Shia communities usually commemorate religious holidays separately in their respective mosques.
Shia march through the center of town from the Indian charitable hospital to the Khoja mosque.
Khojas carry staffs called “alam” that signify the battle standards used at Karbala. Decorated with various motifs representing Imam Hussein’s family, these symbolic flags are draped with red-splotched shrouds evoking bloody battle losses. Khoja mosques feature replicas of Middle Eastern mosques where imams are buried; these are also paraded in the procession.
Since 2017, Arusha’s African Shia have been organizing separate processions. They aimed to reach communities in the outskirts of town and centered their march around African Shiite mosques – not Khoja community landmarks in the city center.
All dressed in black, the color of mourning, marchers carried signs predominantly written in Swahili announcing to the local population the virtues of Imam Hussein (RA). Many men wore T-shirts printed for the procession. Some women and children wore headbands proclaiming “Labaik Ya Hussein” (I am here, O Hussein) or “Proud to be a Husseini.” Led by religious leaders, participants lectured through microphones, rhythmically beat their chests and recited mournfully beautiful Swahili-language “nudba” poetry written by the community about the Battle of Karbala.
As minority Muslims, not all African Shia communities have the freedom or security to publicly proclaim their beliefs. In West Africa, in Sunni Muslim-majority Senegal, Muharram is commemorated behind closed doors. In Nigeria, where public processions do take place, state security forces, long at odds with Nigerian Shia, have attacked and killed participants.
In Tanzania, the government protects freedom of religion. And that is evident in the unique processions of the Indian and African religious communities sharing the peaceful message of Imam Hussein (RA).
This story originally appeared in The Conversation on Reuters on August 13, 2022