GAZA: Anas Qaterji fled Syria when civil war broke out in 2011 and snuck into Gaza, a land with its own history of war and poverty, where he has gained a large following among foodies crazy for the spicy cooking he brought from home.
Qaterji, 36, crossed into Gaza from Egypt through one ofthe many tunnels used to smuggle goods into the enclave, which is home to 2.3 million Palestinians, about half of whom live in fpoverty.
Life in the first few years was tough.
“I was sleeping in the street in 2014, I was homeless untila family took me in. I worked and I didn’t succeed, so I workedharder to get to where I am now,” Qaterji told Reuters as theUnited Nations marks world refugee day.
The United Nations say around 5.6 millions of Syrians havefled the civil war since it began in 2011. Most found refuge inneighbouring countries, like Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan, Iraq andEgypt.
Only 30 or so Syrians fled to Gaza, itself a place wheremost people are refugees, or descendants of refugees, from the 1948 war of Israel’s foundation, which Palestinians still regard as a catastrophe.
“You may say madness, adventure or gambling, but I came here to search for life amid death,” Qaterji said.
Eventually he got a job in a kitchen and began working hisway up in the local food scene, gaining acclaim for twospecialities in particular: a Syrian version of shawarma servedon a bed of rice and sprinkled with toasted nuts, and his famousgarlic cream.
After working as lead chef at a number of restaurants, hedecided to open his own place in 2020, naming it “Al-Halabi” inreference to his home city of Aleppo which has suffered majordestruction in the war.
Posters of Aleppo from before the conflict cover the wallsof Qatarji’s restaurant in the heart of Gaza City. He hopes toreturn for a visit one day when it is safe to go back, and tointroduce his Gazan wife to his family.
During his absence the war has taken its toll.
“My aunt died, so did my uncle, relatives and people dear tome. I wished I could have been there for even a few moments to pay my respect,” he said.
But having entered Gaza illegally Qaterji has no validtravel document, meaning he is unable to leave the enclave ruled by Islamist militant group Hamas. Israel and Egypt maintain tight security restrictions along the border.
“I can’t move from here. I miss my mother, I yearn to kissher hands and feet, I yearn to take her in my arms and introduceher to my wife, the Palestinian woman who stood by me andsupported me,” he said.
“On the world day of refugees I ask all refugees around theworld: Be a beautiful ambassador of your country … build yourhome wherever you are,” said Qaterji.
